Castle Joins Northeast Investment Cooperative – Can the Citizens of NE Cooperate to Fix Up Central Ave?
Castle is excited to announce that we recently became members of NEIC (Northeast Investment Cooperative). NEIC is a for profit cooperative that aims to raise capital and purchase and lease commercial real estate on Central Ave in NE Minneapolis. The area does not work with traditional developers business models or target markets. The goal is to make transformative investments that will eventually tip the Central and Lowry intersection and attract more owner occupied independent businesses. NEIC had nine new members sign up last week, and three new people pledged membership! That brings membership to 67 people who have paid $1,000, plus another 18 who have pledged to join NEIC sometime in the next few months. NEIC has a lot of momentum and has garnered some local media already.
Here is a link to the website www.neic.coop which explains more. I have personally joined NEIC as well and would encourage you all to attend an upcoming info meeting on Sept 19th at 7pm at the East Side Food Coop if you are interested in learning more. Check out this cool photo of Central & Lowry from 1953.
Painting Tips and Care
Note: Some imperfections in wall and paint surfaces can be expected. Per the Castle Building & Remodeling contract, the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines as published by the National Association of Home Builders will be used to determine acceptable workmanship. The guidelines state that “a nail pop, blister, or other blemish that is readily visible from a distance of six feet under normal lighting conditions is considered excessive. “
Choosing Your Paint Finish
Even after a homeowner has chosen the perfect color for a room, there’s another very important decision to make. With several paint finishes to choose from, you should learn the benefits of each and determine the right one for your job. Should you use flat or satin and why? Browse these tips on selecting the perfect paint finishes for your interior home applications.
Matte Finish: Whether called flat finish or wall paint, this type of interior paint has a matte surface and is usually used on interior walls. It’s especially good if you have to camouflage small wall bumps, cracks, or other imperfections, as this finish does not reflect light. While some flat paints today are advertised as washable, you may need to touch up scratches or marks by covering with a bit more paint, so be sure you keep some on hand after you’ve finished painting.
Flat Enamel: Flat enamel is paint with a durable flat, matte finish. It’s a good choice for powder rooms and halls, as it holds up to occasional cleaning.
Eggshell Finish: If you can picture the very low sheen of the shell of an egg, you have an idea of how an eggshell paint finish will appear. With only a slight hint of shine or gloss, it’s good for walls and holds up better with cleaning than flat finish paint.
Satin Finish: Satin finish paint has a smooth, velvety look with a bit more gloss. It is most often used for windows, doors, trim, or ceilings, but can also be used as wall paint. This is particularly suitable for kids’ room walls, kitchens, bathrooms, or areas which get a lot of traffic. Paint with a satin finish is formulated to hold up to cleaning and light scrubbing.
Semi-Gloss: Semi-gloss paint is most often used on doors, trim, and cabinets in kitchens and bathrooms. It is easily cleaned and lays down a nice, subtle shine without being too glitzy. Take care with pre-paint preparation work, as poorly prepared surfaces can be a bit distracting when highlighted by a semi-gloss surface.
Gloss: High gloss paints have an almost reflective quality, as their shiny finish mimics the look of enamel or plastic. Though not widely used in home interiors, it is becoming more popular for a dramatic look on cabinets, trim, and furniture in very formal and very contemporary settings. This finish will magnify any surface imperfections, so careful preparation and sanding is essential before painting with high gloss paints.
Cleanability and Durability
While most manufacturers have developed all paint finishes with good cleaning qualities, a general rule is that the shinier the paint finish, the better it will stand up to washing and cleaning.
Kid-Friendly Finishes When painting children’s rooms, many painters recommend using an eggshell or satin paint on the walls and semi-gloss for doors and moldings. These finishes are formulated to better withstand repeated cleanings.
Rustic Looks In order to give a worn or old look, use flat finish paints for walls or furniture. If cleanability is an issue, you might select a flat enamel for trim or an eggshell finish for walls.
High Gloss Looks Rather than choosing a high gloss paint for a whole room, use it sparingly in select locations, such as doors and trim. The brilliant surface can appear a bit cold and uninviting. Remember to spend extra time preparing the surfaces to be painted glossy, as this finish tends to really point out any surface imperfections.
Ceiling Paint If you’re looking for a basic white ceiling, you can buy pre-mixed, matte finish paints off the shelf at almost any paint or home improvement store. Because cleanabiltiy or coverage is not a particularly important consideration, some ceiling paints use cheaper formulations. If you need an exact color match for the color scheme of your room, choose regular tinted flat wall paint.
Ceiling Finishes Ceilings in most rooms are painted with a flat finish paint. You could also select an eggshell finish if the surface of the ceiling is flawless. Choose a glossier finish for good light reflection, but only if the ceiling is newly resurfaced and has no blemishes.
Kitchens and Baths Any room, such as a kitchen or bathroom that will be exposed to water, splashing, or steam, is best painted with a semi-gloss paint. A guest bath or powder room which will have less-frequent use could be painted with lower-gloss paint, such as satin or eggshell finish.
Homeowner Painting
Many homeowners choose to paint themselves to help save project costs. We have put together some tips to help you understand the responsibilities of acting as the painter on a remodeling project.
The first step is to schedule the painting. Your job as the painter is to work with the Project Manager to schedule the painting. Traditionally, painting can occur at two different stages of the project. Painting can happen immediately after sheetrock, which eliminates considerable prep, taping, etc. but can lead to nicks, dings, and scratches while the rest of the work goes on. To be safe, plan on touching up walls if painting is done early in the project. Painting can also wait until after the rest of the project is complete. This requires more prep and masking but reduces the chance of work-related damage.
Part of scheduling the project may be coordinating the delivery of trim and casing in advance of install so you can paint before it is needed by the carpenter.
As the painter, it is your job to prepare the space as needed to protect adjacent surfaces and areas. This includes masking windows, taping trim, taping ceilings, using drop cloths, and putting up poly curtain walls if needed or not included in the Castle line-item estimate. Another part of preparing the space is to wipe down the walls and clean the surface to be painted.
After preparing the area to paint there is usually some caulking and spackling of drywall imperfections. Trim and casing also require some touch-up to hide nail holes and close gaps at the wall.
Problems with Paint
There are various problems that can occur with painted surfaces. Fading, yellowing, peeling, cracking, sagging and wrinkling are the most common issues and all can be easily fixed.
Fading
Fading is described as premature and/or excessive lightening of the paint color, which can occur on surfaces with sunny exposures. This is relatively easy to see because hidden areas such as eaves will not usually fade. Fading/poor color retention can also be a result of chalking of the coating (e.g. primer, paint or stain).
Possible Cause
- Colors will fade slightly when exposed to intense sunlight. As the coating ages, the fading can become more noticeable. Slight fading is acceptable, provided it is gradual and uniform so as not to be noticeable. Excessive chalking of the paint film will cause colors to appear lighter.
- Interior-grade colorants used outside will fade.
- Adding more tint to the coating than is recommended will cause fading.
- Interior coatings may also fade if they are near windows and there is significant sunlight exposure.
Solution
If the substrate is in good condition except for fading, clean as needed and repaint using a paint that is fade-resistant. Follow label and data page directions for surface preparation for the coating.
Yellowing
Yellowing is defined as the development of a yellow cast in aging paint, most noticeable in the dried films of white paints or clear varnishes.
Possible Cause
- Alkyd/oil-based paints, because of their curing mechanisms, tend to yellow, particularly in areas that are not exposed to sunlight.
- Oil-based varnishes start with an amber cast and will darken with age.
- Heat from stoves, radiators, and heating ducts.
- Lack of light, for example, behind pictures or appliances and inside closets.
- Tobacco-staining or other environmental contaminants.
- Moisture.
Solution
If there are no other problems and the yellowing is not offensive, repainting is not necessary. Repainting using a latex paint will reduce the amount of yellowing, but if the environmental conditions that caused the previous coating to yellow continue, any new coating will likely yellow as well.
Peeling
Peeling is the loss of adhesion of a coating to the substrate (e.g. the surface that was painted) or an earlier coating. Where there is a primer and topcoat or multiple coats of paint, peeling may involve some or all of the coats.
Possible Cause
- Seepage of moisture through uncaulked joints or worn caulk.
- Leaks in roof or walls, or excess moisture escaping through the walls from the interior.
- Painting over a dirty, wet, or glossy surface.
- Painting over a coating that already has marginal adhesion.
Solution
- Remove old, loose, cracked caulk; prime as needed; and caulk with the appropriate product.
- Find and repair any source of water.
- Follow label and data page directions for proper surface preparation methods for the coating.
- Test the coating in a 6″ to 12″ radius around any peeled areas to be sure its adhesion is adequate.
Cracking
Cracking is the splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks; in its later stages, flaking occurs.
Possible Cause
- Use of a paint that has lower adhesion and flexibility properties.
- Over-thinning or over-spreading the paint.
- Inadequate surface preparation, or applying the paint to bare wood without first applying a primer.
- Excessive hardening and embrittlement of paint as it ages, the coating loses the ability to expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes.
Solution
Remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of paint, use of a spackling compound may be necessary to make a uniform surface. Test the coating surrounding any peeled areas out about 6″ to 12″ to be sure the adhesion is adequate. Prime bare wood or plaster before repainting. Apply the coatings at the recommended spreading rate (e.g. the recommended total area that can be painted) and using the recommended thinning rate (e.g. the recommended percentage that a coating may be diluted).
Sagging
Sagging is downward “drooping” of the paint film immediately after application, resulting in an uneven coating.
Possible Cause
- Application of too heavy a coat of paint.
- Application in excessively humid and/or cool conditions.
- Application of over-thinned paint.
- Painting over a glossy surface, which does not provide enough of a profile to which the coating can adhere.
- Painting over a surface contaminant.
Solution
- If paint is still wet, immediately brush out or re-roll to redistribute the excess evenly. If the paint has dried, sand and reapply a new coat of paint.
- Do not thin the paint unless recommended on the label or data page.
- Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate environmental conditions for the coating.
- Sand glossy surfaces dull to provide a profile for the coating to adhere to.
Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate spreading rate (e.g., the recommended total area that can be painted) for the product. Two coats of paint at the recommended spread rate are better than one heavy coat.
Wrinkling
Wrinkling is a rough, crinkled paint surface, which occurs when uncured paint forms a “skin.”
Possible Cause
- • Paint applied too heavily.
- Painting under extremely hot conditions or cool, damp conditions, which causes the paint film to dry faster on top than on the bottom.
- Exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog, or high humidity levels.
- Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently cured primer or first coat of paint.
- Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax).
Solution
Scrape or sand to remove the wrinkled coating; sand the surface smooth to blend it in to the surrounding coating. Make sure the surface is thoroughly clean. If needed, prime bare areas with the appropriate primer, allowing it to dry completely. Re-apply the coating following the label and data page instructions for spreading rate and environmental conditions.
Flooring Care & Maintenance Part 3
The key to the lasting beauty of your wood flooring investment is proper maintenance for the life of your floor. Included in this page are care guidelines, instructions on maintaining urethane finishes and wax finishes, and the do’s & don’ts of your wood floor product.
The following are some excellent guidelines for maintaining today’s wood floors.
- All hardwood floors, regardless of how the floor has been finished, require certain steps that must be taken to maintain the beauty of the floor.
- Every floor must be dust-mopped, vacuumed or swept with a soft bristle broom daily, or as often as necessary, to remove grit and dust from the surface. Walking on a dusty or dirty floor is the fastest way to damage a finish.
- Place walk-off mats at all exterior entrances. This will capture much of the harmful dirt before it even reaches the hardwood floor. Shake out, wash or vacuum mats and area rugs frequently.
- Floor protector pads of soft felt or similar material should be placed on the bottoms of the legs of furniture. Floor protectors must be kept clean of grit and periodically replaced.
- Keep high heels in good repair. An unprotected tip will dent any hardwood floor.
- Kitchen floors experience the most traffic in a home. To prevent premature wear of the floor, place an area rug in front of the sink and stove area. Shake out or vacuum the rugs frequently.
Finally, using a humidifier or dehumidifier in conjunction with a furnace or air conditioning system to maintain relative humidity in the home at 30-50% will maintain the moisture in the wood and minimize cracks between the boards.
Surface Finishes (water-based urethanes, oil-modified urethanes, conversion varnish, and moisture-cured urethanes)
- Use the finish manufacturer’s or the prefinished floor manufacturer’s recommended cleaning system. If the manufacturer is not known or has no recommendation, use a cleaner that will not leave a residue that would inhibit bonding and recoating. NEVER wax a urethane finish. Do not generally wet a wood floor with water. When using any wood floor cleaner which requires mixing with water, follow mixing directions precisely. A cloth wetted with water and squeezed dry may be used to wipe up foodstuffs and other spills, provided the area is buffed dry immediately. Heel or scuff marks and stubborn stains may be removed by lightly rubbing with a cloth and a wood floor cleaner.
- Always use the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning products, as most manufacturer’s warranties are voided if other products, such as oil soaps, are used.
- Wipe spills immediately with a slightly damp soft cloth
- Long-term maintenance – urethane finishes eventually will show wear patterns from surface scratching. When high traffic areas begin to look dull, it is time to recoat (a light sanding, then apply same or compatible finish) or to restore the finish. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Wax Finishes
Routine Cleaning – Use the finish manufacturer’s or the prefinished floor manufacturer’s recommended cleaning system. Never use a water-based cleaner on a wax floor. Once dirt and dust have been removed, the luster may be restored by buffing. Apply additional wax only in heavy traffic areas, if needed. Caution – do not over-wax. An application of a solvent-based cleaning product will remove dirt and allow the floor to be buffed clean. Spills must be wiped up immediately with a lightly water-dampened cloth and then hand-buffed dry.
To remove white spots caused by water spills, use fine steel wool (#000) and a small amount of mineral spirits, then rub gently in a circular motion until spot is gone. Apply additional wax to the area and buff.
Long-term Maintenance – Wax floors that have been neglected may be restored by deep cleaning. An application of a renovating system with fine steel wool, proper dry times and a complete rewaxing will clean and reseal the wood as well as restore color and luster.
Note: Once wax, in any form, has been applied to a wood floor, only wax may be used as a coating over the floor. Urethane and other surface finished cannot be applied over an existing wax finish.
Acrylic Impregnated Floors Non-Urethane Coated
Routine Cleaning-For general cleaning always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and use their floor care products. Long-term Maintenance – An acrylic impregnated floor that has been neglected or improperly cleaned may need restoration. Stripping, sanding or screening the floor may be required. Always contact the floor manufacturer for complete instructions.
Urethane Coated
Routine Cleaning – Some acrylic impregnated floors are coated with urethanes. For general cleaning of these types of floors, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and cleaning procedures for surface finishes. Many manufacturers make a special cleaning solution made for today’s urethanes.
The Do’s and Don’ts of Wood Flooring
Advanced finish technology and innovative products make wood one of the most beautiful and easy-care flooring materials today. FinishingWoodFloors.com offers these guidelines that will help preserve a beautiful finish and keep maintenance to a minimum:
- Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations (when known) for the proper care of a wood floor.
- Know the type of finish on the wood floor. Follow the proper maintenance procedures for the particular finish.
- Never wax a urethane floor. A majority of floors installed today have urethane finishes.
- Never use sheet vinyl or tile floor care products on wood floors. Self-polishing acrylic waxes cause wood to become slippery and appear dull quickly. The only remedy in this situation is to sand and refinish the floor.
- Consult with an installer, the finisher or the manufacturer if there is any doubt of the kind of floor finish.
- Place mats and throw rugs at doorways, exteriors and interiors to help prevent the tracking of grit, dirt and sand.
- Sweep or vacuum wood floors regularly.
- Never wet-mop a wood floor. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood and leave a discoloring residue.
- Wipe up food and other spills immediately with a dry or slightly dampened towel (wipe dry).
- For a wax floor, buff to restore shine. You may want to invest in a buffer.
- Do not over-wax a wax floor. If the floor dulls, try buffing instead. Avoid wax buildup under furniture and other light traffic areas by applying wax in these spots every other waxing session.
- Put plastic or fabric-faced glides under the legs of furniture to prevent scuffing and scratching.
- Remember: cleats, sports shoes and high heels can dent any floor surface.
- When moving heavy furniture, protect wood flooring by slipping a piece of cloth or pile under the legs or covering each leg with a heavy sock or half of a milk carton.
- For wood flooring in the kitchen, place an area rug in front of the kitchen sink to catch sink splashes and cut down on wear.
Source: http://www.finishingwoodfloors.com/technical_help/maintenance.html