Most commercial landscapers use sod to establish a lawn after a building has been completed. Many new homes are left with a barren landscape that the homeowner must tend to. Laying sod is much more effective than planting grass seed. The seeds are often eaten or scorched by the sun and require multiple plantings that lead to unprofessional results. Laying sod is a faster and more effective way to get your lawn started. Sod is tender and must be cared for with dedication, but you will have a plush, full lawn after a few months of work.

Watering Your Sod

Sod should be watered at least 4 hours per day (2 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the evening) for the first two weeks unless there is sufficient rainfall. Each time you water you should give the new sod approximately 3/4″ of water. A good way to measure how much water you are giving the area is to place an empty tuna fish can or anything flat that can hold water and turn your sprinkler on. When the water reaches the top of the tuna fish can or the equivalent on another container you will know 7how long to run your water for. Most people overestimate the amount of time they are actually watering so if your sod starts turning brown after the second day of watering, you may need to reassess your watering time. You also don’t want to overwater, so cut back if you get standing water. Continue to water at this rate for approximately 12 days or until the grass takes root.

Mowing Your Sod

Let your sod grow for at least two weeks before mowing. Mow the new grass at the highest blade setting.

Fertilizing Your Sod

Sod needs to be fertilized within two weeks with a 100% organic fertilizer. The most common types of organic fertilizer are ironite and milorganite and they can be purchased at any home improvement store. Do not use a chemical fertilizer until the sod has rooted into the ground. Chemical fertilizers can burn the roots of the sod, killing it. After initial fertilization, use 16-4-8 fertilizer a recommended rate Care and Maintenance of your Sod in March and September. During the summer use only an organic fertilizer such as those listed above.

Keeping Your Sod Healthy

During the late spring, summer and early fall we require that you put fungus control on your new St. Augustine grass. We can almost guarantee that it will get fungus and we feel it is better to pretreat (but this will not completely prevent) then to potentially lose your new grass because of it. We recommend Scotts Lawn Fungus Control because it is a granule and will stay around longer than a liquid.

If you still experience fungus problems after repeated treatments, especially in saturated areas, you should consult a company to come out that can spray using higher strength fungicide. Do not let the fungus go: you can lose your entire lawn!

The following are frequently asked questions regarding the care and maintenance of Cambria Quartz surfaces from the ones that know best… Cambria!

Q: How do I maintain Cambria’s natural beauty?

A: Maintaining your Cambria is easy. Simply wash with warm water and pH neutral, nonabrasive cleaners such as Formula 409® or Simple Green®, with a clear water rinse. For dried spills, a wet cotton cloth should be used.

Avoid bleach; alkaline (high pH) cleaners such as oven cleaner, abrasive cleansers such as Comet®, Soft Scrub® products or products containing pumice, SOS® pads and other similar products, paint removers, furniture strippers, tarnish or silver cleaners or the like.

DO NOT apply any sealers, penetrants or topical treatments to Cambria under any circumstances. If you have any questions about whether a specific product is acceptable, please contact Cambria.

Q: Is Cambria resistant to surface damage?

A: Yes, Cambria is structurally more resistant to surface damage than other stone. However, all stone can be damaged by excessive force or pressure. Cambria will resist stains from fruit juices, food coloring, coffee, tea, grape juice and nail polish. Cambria’s high gloss finish and extremely low moisture absorption provides maximum resistance to staining and fully eliminates the need for any sealing. Its low absorbency greatly reduces the potential for bacterial growth, mold or mildew.

Q: How does Cambria withstand heat?

A: Natural stone can be damaged by sudden and rapid change of temperature, especially near the edges, as well as direct or sustained heating of the top. Cambria may not withstand the direct transfer of heat from pots and pans and other cooking units such as electric frying pans and griddles, and some crock-pots, roaster ovens and heat lamps. Therefore, the use of a hot pad or trivet is always recommended.

Q: Can I cut on my Cambria countertop?

A: Yes. Cambria is pure natural quartz, giving it superior strength and beauty. Quartz is a 7 in strength on Moh’s Hardness Scale. (A diamond is a 10) You will find that Cambria is so durable, even your finest cutlery won’t harm it.

Q: Will Cambria fade, yellow, or discolor over time?

A: No, unlike other surfaces made of plastic and polymers, Cambria’s luster and color is natural and everlasting.

Q: Is it possible that assuring the beauty of my Cambria can be this “care-free?”

A: Yes, it is really this easy. Cambria’s care-free benefits and everlasting performance gives you more time for the things that matter most to you.

For further information, please contact Cambria by calling 1-866-CAMBRIA.

OR

Check out their website at https://www.cambriausa.com/Customer-Care/care-and-maintenance/

What is a circuit?

Inside the panel, connections are made to the incoming wires. These connections are then used to supply power to selected portions of the home. There are three different combinations: 1) one hot, one neutral, and ground: 110V circuit. 2) two hots, no neutral, and ground: 220V circuit. 3) two hots, neutral, and ground: 220V circuit + neutral, and/or two 110V circuits with a common neutral.

(1) is used for most circuits supplying receptacles and lighting within your house. (3) is usually used for supplying power to major appliances such as stoves, and dryers – they often have need for both 220V and 110V, or for bringing several circuits from the panel box to a distribution point. (2) is usually for special 220V motor circuits, electric heaters, or air conditioners.

(1) is usually wired with three conductor wire: black for hot, white for neutral, and bare for grounding.

(2) and (3) have one hot wire coloured red, the other black, a bare wire for grounding, and in (3) white wire for neutral.

You will sometimes see (2) wired with just a black, white and ground wire. Since the white is “hot” in this case, both the NEC and CEC requires that the white wire be “permanently marked” at the ends to indicate that it is a live wire. Usually done with paint, nail polish or sometimes electrical tape.

Each circuit is attached to the main wires coming into the panel through a circuit breaker or fuse. There are, in a few locales, circuits that look like (1), (2) or (3) except that they have two bare ground wires. Some places require this for hot tubs and the like (one ground is “frame ground”, the other attaches to the motor). This may or may not be an alternative to GFCI protection.

Learn more about What is Grounding vs Grounded vs Neutral? here>>

Electrical Codes

Electrical codes arose in the 1880s with the early commercial introduction of electrical power. Many conflicting standards existed for the selection of wire sizes and other design rules for electrical installations. The intention of wiring safety codes is to provide safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of Regulations may be set by local city, provincial/state or national legislation, perhaps by amendments to a model code produced by a technical standards-setting organization, or by a national standard electrical code.

The first electrical codes in the United States originated in New York in 1881 to regulate installations of electric lighting. Since 1897 the U.S. National Fire Protection Association, a private nonprofit association formed by insurance companies, publishes the National Electrical Code (NEC). States, counties or cities often include the NEC in their local building codes by reference along with local differences. The NEC is modified each three years. It is a consensus code considering suggestions from interested parties. The proposals are studied by Committees of engineers, tradesmen, manufacturer representatives, fire fighters, and other invitees.

Learn more about Knob & Tube Wiring – Electrical Wiring in Buildings here >>

What is UL listing?

The UL stands for “Underwriters Laboratory”. It used to be an Insurance Industry organization, but now it is independent and non-profit. It tests electrical components and equipment for potential hazards. When something is UL-listed, that means that the UL has tested the device, and it meets their requirements for safety – ie: fire or shock hazard. It doesn’t necessarily mean that the device actually does what it’s supposed to, just that it probably won’t kill you.

The UL does not have power of law in the U.S. — you are permitted to buy and install non-UL- listed devices. However, insurance policies sometimes have clauses in them that will limit their liability in case of a claim made in response to the failure of a non-UL-listed device.

Furthermore, in many situations the NEC will require that a wiring component used for a specific purpose is UL-listed for that purpose. Indirectly, this means that certain parts of your wiring must be UL-listed before an inspector will approve it and/or occupancy permits issued.

Learn more about What are the different voltages: 110/115/117/120/125/220/240? here >>